The walls of your teardrop camper can also (big suprise) be built a number of different ways. We chose to go the more difficult, more time consuming, but lighter and more flexible route.
As a result, we were able to run the wires inside the wall, completely hidden from view. Also, we were able to insulate the walls and make them lighter than if they were made from a solid piece of wood <–This would be the first, and simplest way, to build the wall, a solid piece of wood.
Depending on how you want to finish the walls inside and out, you can select a marine grade of plywood, AC or BC rated ply wood, or a solid birch or other hardwood plywood. The plus side of using birch (baltic birch) is that you will have a very smooth surface to finish inside and will end up with a very good looking product. Also, baltic birch is very stable and flat, so it cuts well. Many of the commercial manufactures of teardrop use a solid wall of birch and then varnish it.
If you are going to paint or finish the outside with another covering, you can use AC or BC rated plywood. This will finish off nicely, and not break the bank.
Just like the flooring construction, there is also a sandwich method for wall construction. Again, like many other things, there are a couple different variations.
This involved making a inner framing for your wall using the wall template and 3/4″ plywood, then removing (cutting out with a jig saw) the excess material to lighten the walls. This is then finished the same as the floor, foam, outside and inside plywood.
2. Stick built
We decided to construct the wall in a similar manner as the floor 1×4 framing inside (with foam) and then we finished off the in/out sides with the appropriate material.
Here we used the side template that we had made some time ago. We used a combination of 1×4, 1×2 with biscuits and pocket screws to hold it all together, with tight bond II of course. Each of the 1x’s is on an edge, or forms as pocket (as the 1×2’s do above) for the bulkhead walls to fit into. Each one has a purpose. Although there may not look like many, this is actually a little over built compared to some that I have seen. Remember plane, NOT tank! After the ones on back (left in the photo) were glued together and dried, they were trimmed to match the template using a bottom bearing router bit.
We decided to go with 5/16″ engineered hardwood flooring on the flat surfaces of the inside walls. This way when we finished the wall construction, the walls would be finished. No varnishing or other type of painting for finishing was needed.
A few other wall details
That’s all for now. In the next post, I will begin assembly of the walls to the floor, and start the rear cabinets.
If you missed the first few posts, be sure to go back and checkout: