DIY – Lego Table with Directions

brianFurniture, ProjectsLeave a Comment

DIY LEGO TABLE

My son has been asking for a LEGO table for a while now. I’ve wanted to build him something that looked nice, but was also functional for what he needs.

What does he need ?

  • About a 4 ft work area
  • A place to store lego blocks
  • It needs (or he wants) it to look cool.

All in all here is what you need for this Lego table

  • 2 – 2x4x10 ft (I used SPF), but any straight wood will work depending on what’s available in your area.
  • 1 – 4ft 1×2
  • 1 2×4 ft piece of 1/2 ply wood.  I had baltic birch, but whatever you can find at the home improvement center will work.
  • Kreg pocket hole jig
  • 1 1/4 Kreg pocket hole screws
  • Wood glue
  • 1 can of Yellow spray paint
  • 1 can of Red spray paint

 

The first things that I did was cut the top out of a piece of 1/2 baltic birch plywood, 48″ wide by 19 1/2″ to be exact.  The 48 comes form the fact that it was a 4 ft wide piece of plywood, and the 19 1/2 is what I found to be the depth that I wanted for the table to allow the 5 drawer cart tof it under it.

After I cut the top piece to dimensions, I decided to put a radius on the corner.   This will reduce the risk of getting clothes or other stuff caught on the corner.  I decided that 3″ looked like the right radius, so i went with that.  I used my jig saw and a fine blade to make a clean cut

[peg-image src=”http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nJ3j52cgS2c/VnsDfQoZ8eI/AAAAAAABLjc/hhlZr430Biw/s144-o/IMG_20151221_132555.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/105544828843285769347/Projects#6231578344972480994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG_20151221_132555.jpg” image_size=”3120×4160″ ]

 After that I sanded it just to make the curve smooth.  One note here.  Always cut with the good side DOWN.  This way if you have any pull out at the edges (which I did) it will be on the bottom of the table, and not the top.

Next was to build the base of the LEGO table.  It needed to be high enough for the cart to fit under it, but low enough him to be able to play at it and not be above his chin.  I determined that 30″ was about right and went wit that.  If it is too high, I can always cut the legs off later.

I cut each of the legs out of the best 2×4’s I could find , 30″ long.

[peg-image src=”http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YhrRNA4FFlI/VnsDfeyvEDI/AAAAAAABLjc/XXMtq6u5zvI/s144-o/IMG_20151221_132634.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/105544828843285769347/Projects#6231578348773904434″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG_20151221_132634.jpg” image_size=”4160×3120″ ]

 I then cut 3 other parts.

The side supports.  These would be the edge band on sides, and then also, the back edge band  These are all cut out of 2×4 stock.

The front band, I cut from 1×2.  I made this piece a little thinner to avoid clearance issues with the knees.

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Next was to drill the pocket holes with my trust Kreg pocket hole jig.  This allows you to join 2 pieces of wood together with a hidden (pocket) screw.

 The jig is clamped to the wood, then the drill bit is used is the stop attached, to drill the hole to just the correct depth.

IMG_20151221_132922

I then attached all of the pieces with my pocket hole screws.  I tried to make the holes where they would be as concealed as possible.  Below is how it looked after we glued, screwed, and painted it.

We went with Valspar spray cans.  WELL worth the money.  BUT I will note that it took the Valspar paint a little time to dry (as in a few days).  I looked at reviews of the paint on the Lowe’s website and it seems to be a common problem.  I’m still happy with the turnout though.

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The Top, painted.

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Here it is all done and ready to enjoy.  We added the rolling cart at the bottom.  We purchased it from Target for about 15 bucks.

DIY LEGO TABLE

AND….

The real test is will my son actually sit at it and work on his stuff without leaving a 1000 little, tiny landmines in the floor?  So far so good!

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